black magic

We finish dinner and want to go check out the nightlife and have another Kingfisher somewhere. We have heard Black Magic is pretty  entertaining, so we decide to go check it out….

We round the corner and walk down the long hallway that leads us to where the bouncers stand. There are chairs across the entrance, so we stand awkwardly for a minute wondering if the place is full or something, but no sooner can we think to ask someone, do we get waved in.


A bouncer escorts us upstairs. Right at the top of the stairs a man grabs my hands and tries to start dancing with me – the bouncer shoves him away from me in a hurry. He leads us to a table – kicks all the men that are sitting at it away and has us sit down. He takes our drink order and has someone go to get them and then stands there guarding us.

Heidi, Evy, Kathleen and I look around in shock and awe and burst into a fit of laughter. We cannot wipe the stupid grins off our faces. The is the most insane thing we’ve ever seen. We are the only women in the entire place. It is stock full of super drunk Indian men and they’re dancing like they’re having the best night of their life! They are out on the dance floor showing off their best moves and in between they try to get close to us – but our bouncer doesn’t let that happen.


There’s a mix of Hindi and western music. When a song came on that we knew, all the men’s eyes would really be on us as we sang and kind of danced in our seats. We were offered shots, had requests for photos and others who just stood photographing us all night. At one point ‘Desi Boys’ came on and I nearly peed my pants! My grade sixes and sevens at Ellendale danced to this song this year when they learned Bollywood dancing and all of us teachers that were working on it said we’d be quite happy to never hear it again… I did sing along a bit which really impressed the men!

We then had a fairly funny conversation about what all these people are doing with all the ‘white girl’ photos. Do they have some sort of shrine in one of the room’s of their house? A wall in their entryway perhaps? It seems strange to think how many Indian facebook accounts must have pictures of me…

The ultimate best moment of the night though was when some Hindi song came on and I suddenly have the sea of Indian men singing this song to me. It’s obviously some sort of love song. There’s pointing at me and hand gestures to show a heart beating and there’s my face – beat red. So hilarious!

A little black magic took our night from casual to another world….



I just went to McLeodganj for the weekend. I skipped the trekking trip I was supposed to be going on for the weekend because frankly, I didn’t have any desire to be wet and cold all weekend. It has been insane with the monsoon rains and dealing with that while hiking and going to spend the night in a cabin with no electricity, toilets or running water after the hike and possibility of being soaked – well not really on my to do list at the moment.


So I skipped it and went for a night to the home of the Dalai Lama. What’s that you say? You didn’t know the Dalai Lama lived in India? Well breaking news from Katie’s Travels – He does! He lives in McLeodganj, which is also known as Upper Dharmsala. These towns and the one I’m volunteering in, are in the Indian state of Himachal Pradesh which is in Northern Indian and borders Tibet. He fled Tibet and made the journey through the Himalayan Mountains to McLeodganj.


There are monks in deep red robes wandering everywhere you look in this town, they have all fled Tibet. There are Tibetans everywhere you look here too. They all made the extremely life-threatening journey through the mountains to Indian to escape the Chinese rule. Now I for one really didn’t have a clue what happened between China and Tibet, I really didn’t know a thing about Tibet at all. But after going to the Tibet Museum – a must if you happen to be in McLeodganj – I’ve learned and decided a few things.


  • I don’t really like the Chinese government – at all.
  • Tibet is nearly as big as India.
  • Nearly all of Tibet’s temples and places of religious history and sacrifice have been grounded by the Chinese.
  • Tibetans who are still in Tibet – which is being ruled by China – are being treated like slaves and are not allowed follow any of their beliefs.
  • How is it that the rest of the world is sitting around letting China do this? We have armies going off to countries who don’t want to share oil – but when one country has just taken another country over, killed it’s people, put it’s people in jail and made it’s people slaves, while destroying everything precious about that country we sit back and do nothing. Where are our government’s heads? Or right – up their asses because god forbid we harm our trade with China.


Okay, bitching is done.


I went with Heidi, Evy and Kathleen, we shopped lots, ate everything and anything but Indian food and watching monks debating at their temple after walking the kora to show respect to the monks and their work. There were more backpackers in McLeodganj than I’ve seen the whole time I’ve been in India combined – it was crazy! A refreshingly easy going weekend – just what I needed – along with a little Black Magic….





Debating monks at the Dalai Lama’s temple in McLeodganj.



One of the many Tibetan ladies I shopped from and I. We had such amazing weather!